Food: The Shelborne Reborn
By John McCartney
Special to the SunPost
I Sat down with Keith Menin, Owner of the Shelborne Hotel (Menin Hotels) 15 years ago when he was working check-in for his family there. Check that. We were driving up Collins Ave. both dreaming of becoming Hoteliers. He did that exactly. Most locals on Miami Beach have watched this young guy grow from a small boutique hotel (Sanctuary South Beach) to the likes of The Mondrian, and now The Shelborne that bares his name in the hotel group. 15 years later I’m sitting down with him in his new restaurant Vesper, inside the newly renovated Shelborne Hotel.
I was invited on what seemed like a weeklong food tour. Night after night we ate and drank at Vesper Restaurant. The place feels under-ground, with a James Bond influenced décor, and a spy like entrance through the kitchen. As you walk in you feel at first like you’re in the famous scene from the film Goodfellas, when Henry Hill walks through the service entrance with Karen. Once inside you enter a bar, lined with what seemed like 100 Martini glasses ready to serve Vespers. Vespers are a cocktail made famous in he Ian Fleming novel Casino Royale. Consisting of 3-part gin, 1 part Vodka, 1 part something I can’t pronounce. Staff was all gathered in their appropriate places, all dressed in part, and all very professional.
The décor of the room was exactly as one wood think. Dark woods, no windows, comfy banquets. The main Dining room is small, which I like. It makes you feel cozy. If you were the only people in the restaurant you would still feel very comfortable. On each side of the room there are vintage wall size photos of the Italian Riviera. Very cool vibes are going on in this place.
I started off drinking a Vesper ($12) and enjoyed it very much. I paid little attention to the wine list but I did notice all the usual suspects at a glance. This is more of a martini place for me.
Appetizers began to roll out of the kitchen like clockwork. We started off with a giant mound of Chili Glazed Chicken wings ($14) perfectly sweet and spicy. They add the glaze when finishing the wings. This leaves just the right amount of crisp on them. Next was Spinach Artichoke Dip ($12) presented in a large casserole with aged Parmesan, provolone, and mozzarella. This dish made me curious. Felt a little too simple for the restaurant. Good never-the-less. For cold apps we had the Colossal Crab Cocktail ($17) this was my favorite. Giant chunks of white crab meat served chilled with a half wedge of lime, spicy mayo, and cocktail sauce. Trust me, they are loosing money on this dish, as the portion is huge! Menin informed me that they had wanted a menu that everyone could eat off, no gimmicks, and food for everyone. After another cocktail I began to feel like I was at the Newport Pub…. For those of you who remember.
Our first Entrée was the Marinated Chilean Sea Bass ($30) cooked perfectly with a slight crisp char, glistening green baby bok choy, and tangy yuzu sauce. The buttery flavor of the sea bass combined with the citrus of the yuzu was textbook. After that came Shepherd’s Pie ($25) Kobe Beef, Whipped potatoes, Melted Cheese. Need I say more? Ok, I will. Every table in the restaurant seemed to have this on it. Sides included crispy golden Onion Rings, Roasted Garlic Mash, Skinny Sweet Potato Fries all $7. All of these complimented the Entrees with their own unique flare
Desserts were sent out in a parade like fashion and looked like one as well. Highlights were Homemade Donuts ($10.) With chocolate, vanilla, and caramel dipping sauce. My favorite was the Banana Split ($10) the large scoops of chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry ice cream on top of slices of banana wafers. You don’t walk away from this place hungry.
To sum up the end of a quiet Tuesday night at Vesper, actually it wasn’t quiet at all. On Tuesday nights the back patio of the restaurant and hotel turns into the biggest social scene on the Beach. The who’s who’s of South Beach, and a few of the who wannbes were all there. Keith showed me the rest of the grounds and all the new renovation. Great cabanas for day or night activities. A giant lobby bar for libations and people watching.
The Shelborne Boasts two more restaurants that deserve their own reviews, Bar Tanaka and Lucy’s Cantina. We’ll leave it for our next exploration.
Vesper Restaurant
The Shelborne Hotel
1801 Collins Ave
Miami Beach, Fl 33139
Tel: 305-341-1500
The Shelborne Hotel has truly transformed, we went to opening night there and dined later during the week at Vesper’s. The food and service was fantastic, we’re hooked on the atmosphere, the fabulous food and it’s presentation! You’ve got to try it!