Food: The Best of Bernie
Chef Bernie Matz Offers Health-Conscious Latin American Cuisine on Alton
By John Zur
The “L.A.” in Bernie’s L.A. Café stands for Latin American. We’re not talking about that greasy, afterhours Latin American you’re seeking to ease a night of drinking. We’re talking refined, health-conscious Latin American cuisine with borrowed influences from a variety of origins, namely organic sources.
With rich tastes, textures, and a care for each ingredient used, chef and owner Bernie Matz delivers a menu that is expansive, diverse, and surprisingly inexpensive. Chef Matz, who also owns and operates the kitchen at the Café at Books & Books on Lincoln Road, opened Bernie’s L.A. Café in July 2010 as a restaurant serving modern, pan Latin American food. Chef Matz invited SunPost to come in and sample his menu.
Situated next door to the Starbucks on the corner of Alton and 16th, it’s easy to miss Bernie’s L.A. Café if you’re not looking out for it. But once you find it, you’ll never miss it again (for good reasons)! The inside is cozy, minimalistic, and vibrant with its design incorporating exposed wooden tables, red walls, and tall glass windows. The counter and register suggest casual and take-out. The dining area suggests urban bistro. The space works for both purposes.
Our server, Alex, was personable, polite, and attentive. The same could be said of the other server we observed and interacted with. While debating whether to start off with Colombian ($1.75) or Argentinian ($2.50) empanadas, Alex suggested we begin with a guest favorite, mango bang bang shrimp ($8.95). Quick-fried in flour and Cajun spice, there is a bit of a crunch. The shrimp are then tossed in mango chutney with a dollop of mayo. On a return visit, we ordered the avocado salsa ($5.95) with homemade corn chips. There is a sweetness and citrus tart to what is essentially one of the best guacamoles around.
The sandwiches are the most extensive portion of a menu that also features soups, tapas, tacos, salads, fajita wraps, quesadillas, and daily specials. Each sandwich comes with a choice of mixed field greens or fresh-cut fries. The pan con bistec ($10.95), ordered with the salad, is taken up a notch from expectations based on visits to Cuban cafeterias. Shaved Black Angus rib-eye steak. Basil mayo. Tomatoes. Crispy string fries. Served on a soft wheat baguette. The ratio of meat to accompaniments to bread is down to a science. The portion is generous. So generous, in fact, that one sandwich could probably feed two especially if you’re ordering an appetizer. Please keep the portions this big, chef!
Also new to the menu, the Havana cheese-steak ($10.95) again uses shaved Black Angus rib-eye as the foundation of a sandwich that also includes melted Monterrey jack and crispy string fries on a soft wheat baguette. The fries are crisp and thick enough to appreciate the un-fried potato inside.
Coffee beverages are made with Café Bustelo. The cappuccino was served in a bountiful cup and balanced proportionately between coffee, milk, foam, and sugar. Dessert includes a traditional flan that Chef Matz incorporates coconut and cream cheese into for a creamy texture that is more cheesecake-like. The flan is finished with a guava puree. Also sampled is a cuatro leches, which is prepared in the traditional Latin way with evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, and regular cream plus dulce de leche on top. Despite the addition, the dessert is not too decadent or sweet
Chef Matz explained that he likes to keep his food simple. His goal with the fare at Bernie’s L.A. Café is to “clean up” and “modernize” Latin American cuisine, which can be quite unhealthy with the use of margarine, processed foods, heavy starches, and fried elements. Brown rice and whole wheat bread are staples at Bernie’s and a multi-grain bread is available as well. All of the bean soups are vegan, which is unheard of for a Latin American restaurant.
Those craving Bernie’s L.A. Café can order online, from the comfort of their home for delivery.
TO GO: Bernie’s L.A. Café. 1570 Alton Road. Miami Beach. (305) 535-8003.
