Food: Pied à Terre Provides an Exquisite Experience
The Cadet Hotel’s Intimate Restaurant Features Excellent Food and Superb Service Amidst an Elegant Art Deco Setting.
By John Zur
In English, the French phrase pied à terre translates to “foot on ground.” It is implied to mean an apartment set away from the primary residence, typically for a person of affluence. The Miami Beach restaurant, Pied à Terre, is a similar extension of the Art Deco-era Cadet Hotel; gloriously refurbished by owner Dr. Vilma Biaggi. While the hotel embraces its history during World War II as Clarke Gables’ outpost, the Cadet Hotel is very much modernized in a charming and elegant décor.
Upon entering the hotel lobby, one is greeted by attentive and naturally polite staff. The vestibule is simple in furnishings, yet decadent in details such as the sweet aroma of incense. The hotel, itself, is pristine. As restaurant guests, we were invited to take a seat on plush couches while waiting for the maître d’.
Patrick Calvarese, maître d’, is a distinguished French Canadian who was kind enough to share his story with us throughout dinner. The former chef has traveled well and couldn’t be happier settled into the serene setting of Pied à Terre. The dining room is a petite, one-room space that is as comfortably stylish of an atmosphere to dine as any. Oversized chairs, linen tablecloths to match the linen drapes, and simple centerpieces of red roses are a few of the details personally chosen by Dr. Biaggi.
The printed menus are set in leather-bound books and delivered into the guests’ hands with care. After our order was taken, a basket of warm French baguette was brought to the table. The bread is crusty on the outside, yet soft and chewy on the inside, and is served with Beurre d’Echire butter, considered to be amongst the highest quality French butter. Unwrapped before us, the firm butter has rich flavor. The bread service is an ideal prelude to Pied à Terre’s unique combination of elegance and homemade appeal. Cucumber vichyssoise with caviar was served as the amuse bouche.
Patrick, Pied à Terre’s resident wine enthusiast (he doesn’t consider himself a sommelier, per se), poured Ladoucette Pouilly-Fume 2008 in anticipation of our appetizers. The ceviche of the day ($17) consisted of black grouper, ancho chili, citrus honey, and mango granita. The final product is a rich medley of sweet fruit and citrus complementing the fish. The pan-seared foie gras ($21) is busy entertaining the palate with accompaniments including a duck confit dumpling, roasted peach, watercress, and date gastrique. The problem with this dish is that the duck confit could hardly be tasted, or appreciated, inside that tiny dumpling. Meanwhile, the foie gras’s gelatinous texture oozed apart. It was a dish of rich flavors that unintentionally melded together in an unflattering way.
The wine list is pleasantly diverse, offering guests whites and reds from France, Italy, and America. The price ranges vary from low to high end. There is a good selection of champagnes and sparkling wine, along with dessert wines by the glass and bottle.
Before our entrees arrived, a box of knives was presented. Again, it was the details that made service impressive. Patrick’s suggested temperature for the Dijon roasted veal chop ($45), at medium, was spot on. The white meat was tender and juicy. The Pommes Anna featured a generous accompaniment of sliced potatoes in a pie-like presentation. The truffle asparagus was a feeble vegetable side, somewhat offset by the presence of morel mushrooms. The veal jus, reduced with brandy, was quite strong and overpowered almost everything it touched, including the veal chop.
The lobster stuffed Acadian redfish ($32) appears on the menu with wild rice, tri-color pepper, and herb butter. The combination of flaky fish and crustacean had good flavor to it; well-seasoned and not “fishy.” However the rice was a bit bland and undercooked. Overall, the dish wasn’t as exciting as one would hope for in a restaurant of this caliber.
Following our entrees, Patrick wheeled a cheese cart to the table. First explaining, and then slicing cuts from a Brie, a Brie-like Canadian cheese, and a Manchego-like cheese, Patrick presented the plate with apricot marmalade, a fig, and a slice of raisin bread. Yes, by this point in the meal your limits are being tested.
For dessert, the flourless chocolate cake ($12), served warm, was a winner with its decadent taste and texture, and crème anglaise. However, the lavender ice cream was a bit of a letdown with its tiny serving inside a chocolate tulip. The dessert is off-set by a few berries and a lemon tuile.
Arthur, a suit-wearing service professional who works the dining room alongside Patrick, escorted us outside to the poolside dining area and out the restaurant’s intended front door. A buzzer on the door alerts the staff that their dinner guests are present.
While the ambiance and service are off the charts, the food had its areas of opportunity to work through. The efforts of visiting chef Jean-Luc Taulere were much appreciated. Those thinking of visiting Pied à Terre can look forward to the November introduction of British-based chef and nutritionist Varun Shivdasani. Certainly, Pied à Terre is a class act and one that is deserving of a dedicated, and talented, chef devoted to French cuisine.
For more information, please visit piedaterrerestaurant.com.
